Tuesday 13 December 2011

Cusco, Peru

In Galapagos, we were at sea-level and the air was thick and humid.  We travelled from Galapagos to Cusco where the altitude is 3,400 metres (over 11,000 feet) and the air is very thin and dry.

The change in altitude was a big shock for our hearts and lungs.  We live at an altitude of just 700 metres (2,500 feet).  Most of our trip so far has been at low altitude (mostly sea-level).

A short walk in Cusco is enough to get your heart pumping.  You never fully adjust to the altitude but you adjust enough to enjoy the amazing sites in and around Cusco.

Coca tea helps with symptoms of altitude sickness.  The tea has many stimulants including trace amounts of cocaine.  Hotels and restaurants serve it so it must be safe right?

Bottoms up!

Cusco was the capital of the Inca Empire that dominated most of western South America in the 15th century. The Inca people and almost all parts of their civilization were destroyed by the Spanish when they conquered South America in the early 16th century.  A few Inca sites remain intact and it's easy to see that the Inca people were exceptional architects and engineers.

We visited several Inca sites in Cusco with the first being Coricancha.  It was a temple to the Sun god - the most important god for the Incas.  Only parts of it remain intact.  The Spanish destroyed most of it and built a convent on top of the temple's foundations.  This was done as part of their conquest of the Incas and their effort to convert the Inca people to Christianity.

Part of the temple - polished stone blocks fit tightly together without mortar

Stone blocks used in the walls had grooves and notches to lock them together (kinda like Lego)

Inside the temple

Convent (tan coloured stone) built on temple's foundation (grey stone)

Next up was Saqsayhuaman (pronounced kinda like "saxy waman").  This religious site has long zig-zagging stone walls built with the largest stones we'd seen since Stonehenge in England.

Just part of the walls

Big stone behind us weights about 200 tonnes

Here are a few more photos from Cusco.

Another Inca site - this one dedicated to the Water god

Deceased Incas were prepared for their trip to the next world in this cave on the stone on the left

Looking over Cusco - 350,000 locals and lots of tourists

Cathedral of Santo Domingo

Best hot chocolate in South America - thanks Amanda, Don and Fraser for telling us about it

Vanessa's new alpaca wool sweater

Traditional dance show at our hotel

Blake trying to dance

The Inca sites in Cusco were great but there were even better sites waiting for us in the surrounding area. Stay tuned!

Vanessa and Blake

Monday 12 December 2011

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador - Part 2

Our next day trip was to South Plaza Island.  The island has lots of iguanas.  Just like the sea lions, the iguanas don't have any fear of tourists.

Us with a Galapagos Land Iguana

Iguanas always have the right-of-way

Iguana munching on a piece of cactus - their favourite food

A closer look

Charles Darwin called these iguanas "ugly"

Galapagos Marine Iguana having a nap before heading back out to the water

Here are a few more photos from South Plaza Island.

More sea lions posing for photos

Bachelor males sleep on high cliffs on the far side of the island

Ground cover is red and orange in dry season; changes to green in rainy season

Colourful crabs

Day ended with a hour of snorkeling 

We also visited Bartolome Island.  The island is an extinct volcano.  It's a very picturesque place.

The island

View from the top

Pinnacle Rock

There isn't as much wildlife on Bartolome Island as on the other Galapagos islands but we still saw some very cool stuff.

Galapagos Hawk floating above us

Hawk decides he's going to come down for a visit

Posing for a photo

We had to step over this sea lion to get to our boat - he didn't wake up

Galapagos Penguin - he's not lost, he's a permanent resident

We were going to take this photo in the water until a very big shark swam by

We saw lots of dolphins jumping on our trip home

On our last day in Galapagos, we toured the Charles Darwin Research Station on Santa Cruz Island.  They do research to support preservation of the Galapagos Islands.  One of their programs is raising baby giant tortoises and then releasing them into areas of the Galapagos where their numbers have declined.

These babies are about a year old and only 10 cm long

They're very cute

Having a drink

The little tortoises grow slowly.  They reach adulthood at 30 years and they can live as long as 175 years.

Adults can weigh 400 kg (almost 900 pounds)

Yawning

The most well-known adult at the research station is Lonesome George.  He is the last Pinta Island Tortoise, a subspecies of giant tortoises.  They have been trying to get George to mate with females of other subspecies of tortoise.  No luck so far - George hasn't met the girl of his dreams yet.

George was looking really depressed when we walked by

After the visit to the research station, it was off to the airport for a flight to the mainland.

Modelling our Galapagos souvenir t-shirts

Our five days on the Galapagos Islands were amazing and one of our favourite parts of our trip so far.  We'll definitely be back - there are fourteen more islands in the Galapagos for us to explore.

Vanessa and Blake   

Galapagos Islands, Ecuador - Part 1

The Galapagos Islands are very remote - almost 1,000 km west of the coast of Ecuador.  The draw for tourists is the wildlife - there is a large number of species and the animals have no fear of people.  This allows you to have lots of close encounters.

We spent five days in Galapagos and visited several islands.

Santa Cruz Island was our first stop.  The island has lots of giant tortoises.  They are protected and roam over various parts of the island.  We visited a tortoise reserve where the locals are happy to pose for photos.

Us with friend

Roaming tortoises

Tortoises love mud baths

Showing us his good side

Santa Cruz and the other Galapagos Islands are volcanic islands just like the Hawaiian Islands.  On Santa Cruz, there are lava tubes where lava once flowed across the island and there are also sink holes where lava tubes have collapsed.

Inside a lava tube - looks like a subway tunnel

Us in a lava tube

Us with a sink hole in the background

Our next day trip was to Santa Fe Island.  On Santa Fe, the stars of the show are the sea lions.  It was amazing to stand on the beach just a few feet from them.  They completely ignore you and go about their day as though you aren't there.

Standing up straight for his picture

Blake and friend

Blake with sleeping sea lions

There were sea lions sleeping all across the beach

Not all were sleeping - two males fought in the water

As a bonus, the female sea lions were calving when we were there.  There were lots of pups around including a few that were only a day or two old and one that was only a few hours old!

Vanessa with sea lion pup

Something caught his eye and he was on the move

Lots of interesting sights and smells here

Played out after all the excitement

Mom trying to get her hours-old pup to nurse

A couple more photos from Santa Fe Island.

Cacti grow tall and have bark so they don't get eaten by iguanas and tortoises

Great ocean view

More to come from the Galapagos!

Vanessa and Blake